Sew Back in Time

March Greetings, Farmgirl Readers! Though we are almost halfway through the month, here in New England, the first quarter of 2026 has had the longest, harshest winter in decades! 2026 also marks a very important anniversary milestone for our country, so what better time to take an indoor class on Colonial sewing? 

We’ve had more snow, more ice, and more extremely cold temperatures than I can remember in the last 30 years that I have lived in New England. When not going to work or school, everyone just seems to be “hunkering down” until winter passes.

Winter fatigue is setting in! Even the wildlife is thinking “When is this winter weather going away?”

While I enjoy winter, the last few weeks, I have been feeling like a hibernating bear! It’s the perfect time to have something to look forward to and learn something new. That’s one reason I was so excited when I saw my hometown’s Historical Society offer a three-part, hands-on workshop on how to make 18th century garments, in honor of our country’s 250th anniversary. All year long, I teach knitting and gardening classes, so taking a class as a participant is very exciting. I also love learning about history, especially American history. I could not wait! 

The workshop is led by Melissa Houston, Director of Education at the Greenwich Historical Society, (and historical sewing instructor) who was once a high school classroom history teacher and also previously served on the Board of the Newtown Historical Society. Her historical knowledge and expertise is really amazing! While she has done reenacting, Melissa is a costume interpreter. Melissa explained the difference between a historical reenactor and a costume interpreter:  “A reenactor perfectly portrays a moment in time, while a costume interpreter uses clothing as a teaching tool.” Melissa’s attention to detail and skill at being historically accurate with her clothing is incredible, so when she walked in the door, it was like seeing history come to life!

At the first installment, we learned that we would be making a colonial-style apron, petticoat, and bed gown, all sewn by hand. I sew quite a bit with my sewing machines. I also do embroidery, repair toys, dolls and clothing all by hand, but I have never constructed an entire, large garment with only hand sewing. I am not going to be a docent or do reenacting, but I do love history and am so grateful to have this experience, especially this year, with our country’s 250th birthday!

As Melissa teaches us about the fashions of the time and fabrics, Abby from the Newtown Historical Society models the three pieces participants will learn to make.

We learned what different fabrics would have been used for clothing during around the year 1776. I was surprised by much of what we learned, such as how many layers women wore at one time, thinking that I would have burned up under all of the clothing! However, fabrics were all made of natural fibers, so everything worn back in Colonial America was breathable.

Fabrics such as cotton, wool and silk were used. Linen was also popular in the 18th century, in part because it was strong, standing up to tough laundering practices, such as boiling. Stripes, checks and vining prints could be seen on fabrics, but stripes would be symmetrical and on both sides, like ticking.  Nothing was made on a machine, like the mass produced fabrics we have now, but instead was woven or stamped. Shell-type prints were found in the late 1770s, while dots would have been found around 1794. 

Melissa gave us all samples of different types of fabrics so we could practice our stitches by making a “needle book”, with silk ribbon ties. My friend Charlene and I finished ours together over coffee one cold afternoon, and they both came out so cute (and useful)!

Aprons were long, tying around the waist. Women wore them to do tasks such as gardening. To start, we measured the fabric from our belly button to our ankle bone for length. I was so surprised that they did not go to the floor. It’s a common misconception that women did not show their ankles in Colonial times! In fact, skirt lengths were made so that women could go upstairs without “touching” the skirt to pull it up and avoid tripping. 

Starting my apron. The fabric I chose is vintage, purchased from a local fabric store that carries vintage as well as new fabrics!

I am working on my apron now. We first made a long, running stitch and gathered the fabric. Next, long ties are hand sewn to the fabric at the top using the overcast stitch. I can’t wait to show you all when my pieces are all completed! Stay tuned!

I am happily sewing on my apron, attaching the ties. I’m currently finishing it at home.

Next, we will be making our petticoats and finally, our bedjackets. Colonial petticoats are not like the puffy, crinoline-type of the 1950’s that first come to my mind when I think “petticoat”, but rather more like two aprons, four inches longer and sewn together.

Melissa shows us the construction of the petticoat, with pleats on both sides, on the outside in front, and on the inside in back.

Petticoats were pleated, not gathered, with a box pleat in the middle. Petticoats tied with two ties, with eight inch openings on each side, so women could access their “pockets”, which were essentially little “bags” tied to the sides. Petticoats would have been made from heavier fabrics such as heavy cotton or wool. Melissa told us, “In the 1700’s the shape of the clothing did not show if you were rich or poor, it was the fabric.”  You would not mix informal and formal clothing – no homespun fabric worn with fancy cotton, and fabric would match, such as wool with wool. The amount of clothing someone had was based on wealth; the average woman had five to thirteen gowns. Older women would layer their scarves to show their wealth. 

Sunscreen and bug spray did not exist, so skin would be totally covered. Chores during the colonial times were dictated by the weather, so sewing was done during the winter, but it was mostly small items that were made at home. For bedgowns, petticoats and aprons, you did not need stays, but if you wore a gown, you needed stays.  “Stays” do not hurt like a corset. Tailors made the stays, seamstresses sewed gowns. A “shift” was a long-sleeved linen dress that could go under everything – closed with “sleeve buttons”. There was no elastic in those days! 

An example of colonial “sleeve buttons” that would have been used on the sleeves of a linen shift.

There were also no buttons on the front of the women’ s clothing; instead women closed their garments with pins. This also helped to adjust the size of the clothing during and after pregnancy.

An example of the pins that would have been used to close their clothing in front, similar to a modern “straight pin”, with a head at one end.

If something no longer fit, you would sell the finished piece to buy more fabric (or hand it down). There was an enormous used clothing market in 1776! 

Can you just imagine New England women in the 18th century, sitting by a crackling fire on a snowy, cold day, using their beeswax, needle and thread, hand sewing a pretty apron to wear for spring gardening! I am so inspired by and really looking forward to attending the third installment of classes!

If this sparks your interest, Melissa recommends this book for further reading.

What do you think – would you have enjoyed wearing the fashion of 1776 as a colonist? Leave me a comment below, and let me know that you stopped by! 

*A special thanks to Melissa Houston, Director of Education, Greenwich Historical Society and to the Newtown Historical Society! Remember to check out your local Historical Society for great events, museums and historical preservation!

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